Blisters over the tub
Bubbles or loose sheets of paint above the shower mean moisture has broken the bond, and every coat on top of it will keep lifting until it's scraped back.
Paint bubbling over the tub, gray mildew freckling the ceiling, and a ragged line where someone rolled wall paint onto the tile: bathrooms ruin ordinary paint faster than any other room, and most failures start with steam that has nowhere to go.

$745 to $1,690Typical per bathroom in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Bathroom painting in Quincy means killing mildew, scraping and sanding peeling paint over the tub and shower, repairing soft plaster or drywall, priming with a stain-blocking or bonding primer, then brushing and rolling two coats of mildew-resistant satin or semi-gloss with clean cut lines at tile and fixtures. A typical full bath runs about $745 to $1,690. The walk-through sets the real number.
A bathroom is a small room with a big moisture load. Every shower puts warm, wet air against cold walls and ceilings, and in an older Quincy house that air often has nowhere to go except into the paint. Add soap film and a window that stays shut half the year, and you get the peeling, blistering and mildew spotting we see in bathrooms from Wollaston two-families to Marina Bay condos.
Our painters treat a bathroom as a moisture problem first and a color choice second. We find out why the old paint failed, scrape and repair back to a sound surface, kill any mildew, and use primers and finishes made for wet rooms. We also cut the paint line by hand against tile, tub and vanity so the room looks finished up close, which is where bathrooms get looked at most.

Peeling over a tub or shower almost always has the same story. Steam condenses on the coldest surface, usually the outside wall or the ceiling above the shower, and water works behind the paint film. If the paint underneath was flat wall paint, or latex rolled over glossy oil without a bonding primer, the bond lets go and the film lifts in blisters and sheets. Painting over that only buries the problem for a few months.
We scrape every loose and blistered area back to a firm edge, then feather sand the edges so they don't show through the new finish. Soap scum and body oils get washed off with a degreasing cleaner and rinsed, because paint won't stick to a greasy film. Glossy oil layers get scuffed and a bonding primer. Bare plaster or new compound gets a primer suited to it before any finish goes on.
Mildew has to be killed, not covered. We wash spotted areas with a mildew cleaner, let it dwell, rinse and let the surface dry completely before priming, since painting over live mildew lets it grow back through the new coat. The primer is a stain-blocking product so old shadows don't bleed through. The finish is a mildew-resistant acrylic made for baths, which holds up to humidity and gentle scrubbing.
Satin is our usual bathroom sheen on walls because it sheds moisture, wipes clean and still hides small plaster waves. Semi-gloss goes on trim, doors and sometimes the ceiling over a shower where water collects. Flat wall paint absorbs moisture and is the wrong choice in a bathroom, even if it looks nice on day one. We'll show you samples under the room's own light first.
Good paint slows mildew down, but a bathroom that holds steam for an hour after every shower will beat any coating eventually. At the walk-through we check whether there is a fan, whether it actually pulls air (a square of tissue held to the grille tells you), and whether it vents outside rather than into the attic. A fan that dumps into the attic causes frost and stains on the roof side of the ceiling in winter.
We don't do electrical work, so if the fan needs replacing or upgrading, we'll tell you plainly and suggest having an electrician handle it before we paint. Simple habits help too: run the fan during the shower and for twenty minutes after, crack the door, and wipe the ceiling over the shower if it drips.
Bathrooms are almost all cut-in work. We brush the line where paint meets wall tile, the tub rim, the vanity backsplash and the medicine cabinet by hand instead of relying on tape, which can pull fresh paint or leave a ragged edge on uneven plaster. Toilets are protected or the tank lid lifted, mirrors and fixtures are masked or removed, and towel bars and accessories come off so there are no paint rings around them.
Many Quincy two-families still have original bathrooms with wainscot tile below and three-coat plaster above, often with years of moisture damage at the window and the ceiling. Soft or crumbling plaster gets cut back and rebuilt, cracks get mesh tape and setting compound, and loose areas are fastened. Where tile meets plaster, we run a fresh bead of mildew-resistant caulk so water can't sit in the joint and start the peeling all over again.
We look at the peeling and mildew, test the fan and the old coatings, check plaster for soft spots, and send a written estimate that lists each repair.
Floors, tub, toilet and vanity are covered, mirrors and accessories come off, and containment goes up if pre-1978 layers will be scraped.
Mildew is washed and rinsed, loose paint is scraped back to firm edges, and the room dries out fully before any repair or primer.
Plaster and drywall are patched with setting compound, edges are feathered, and the right primer goes over bare, glossy or stained areas.
Ceiling first, then walls, then trim and door, cut by hand at tile, tub and fixtures in mildew-resistant satin or semi-gloss.
Joints get fresh mildew-resistant caulk, accessories go back up, and we tell you how long to wait before showering and how to run the fan.
This typical range covers a full bathroom with ceiling, walls above the tile, trim and door, mildew treatment, routine scraping and patching, primer and two coats. Half baths sit at the low end, while baths with heavy peeling, soft plaster or tall ceilings run toward the top. The walk-through sets the real number.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Bubbles or loose sheets of paint above the shower mean moisture has broken the bond, and every coat on top of it will keep lifting until it's scraped back.
Gray or black spotting that comes back within weeks of a bleach wipe means the paint is holding moisture and needs killing, priming and a bath-rated finish.
Tan or sticky streaks running down a freshly painted wall come from paint that was steamed before it cured, and they usually point to poor ventilation too.
Plaster that crumbles under a fingernail at an old bathroom window or ceiling has absorbed water for years and must be rebuilt before paint will hold.
Cracked or missing caulk at the tile cap or tub rim lets water sit behind the paint edge and starts peeling from the bottom up.
Stains around towel bars, shelf brackets and a medicine cabinet show where water has wicked behind them and need stain-blocking primer.
Older Quincy two-families in Wollaston, North Quincy and Quincy Point usually have stacked bathrooms on the same plumbing wall, many with original tile wainscot, plaster above it and a small window that gets painted shut. Ceilings in those rooms often show both mildew from steam and stains from the bathroom above. Landlords often want the bath turned between tenants in a day or two, so we plan the scraping, plaster repair and primer to move quickly, then give the finish the cure time it needs.
On Houghs Neck, Squantum and Adams Shore, converted summer cottages add damp bay air to shower steam, and some bathrooms sit on outside walls with little insulation, so condensation hits the walls hard in winter. Newer condos at Marina Bay and around Quincy Center have windowless interior baths that depend entirely on the exhaust fan. In both cases the finish choice matters, but so does a working fan, and we'll say so at the walk-through.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
Most bath-rated acrylics need at least a day, and often two or three, before a hot shower. Steam on uncured paint can pull surfactants to the surface as tan or sticky drips, which wash off but look alarming. Run the fan, keep showers short and lukewarm for the first week, and avoid scrubbing the walls for about a month while the film hardens fully.
It will slow it down a lot, but only if the mildew is killed first and the room can dry out after showers. We wash and rinse the spots, let the surface dry, prime with a stain blocker and finish in a mildew-resistant paint. In cottages that hold damp bay air, a working exhaust fan or a dehumidifier in summer makes the difference between years and months.
Only the loose paint needs to come off, but all of it does. We scrape back to a firm edge, feather sand so the edges don't show, degrease and prime the bare spots. Rolling new paint over blistered areas just adds weight to a film that has already let go, and it peels again within the first winter of showers.
We usually use satin on walls, since it sheds moisture and wipes clean while hiding the small waves of old plaster. Semi-gloss goes on trim and doors, and sometimes on a ceiling right above the shower. Flat paint holds moisture and mildews quickly, so we don't recommend it anywhere in a bathroom, however good it looks on the chip.
No, we don't do electrical work. We check whether the fan pulls air and where it vents, and if it's weak or missing we'll tell you plainly and suggest having an electrician replace it before we paint. In windowless condo bathrooms, a quiet fan that runs on a timer after each shower is the best protection for a fresh paint job.
Walls that crack again a month after painting, flat paint that scuffs when you wipe it, and old oil layers that peel off in sheets: most Quincy.
How we do itA brown ring from the bathroom upstairs, a web of cracks spreading from the light fixture, or a ceiling that looks dingy next to fresh walls:.
How we do itA bulge that moves when you press it, a chunk that fell behind the radiator, or a crack running from the window corner to the ceiling after a.
How we do itA doorknob hole in the hallway, a soaked ceiling after a pipe let go in a cold snap, or tape seams that ridge and crack every winter: drywall damage.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.