Peeling on the sunny side
Strips or flakes on the south and west walls usually appear first and mean the film there has lost its bond to the wood underneath.
Peeling clapboard, chalky trim and bare gray wood on the weather side of a Quincy house mean the old paint film has stopped protecting the siding, and every winter off the bay lets more water in.

$7,680 to $17,350Typical per house in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Exterior house painting in Quincy involves washing off salt film and mildew, lead-safe scraping, sanding edges, repairing or replacing rotted boards, priming bare wood, caulking open joints and applying two coats of exterior acrylic. Typical ranges for a two-story single-family house run $7,680 to $17,350, set by size, height, paint condition and trim detail. Work runs May to October, and a walk-through sets the real number.
A good exterior paint job is mostly prep. On a hundred-year-old Quincy house that means dealing with layers of oil paint that have cracked and lifted, wood that has gone gray where it was bare, joints that have opened and caulk that has dried out in the salt wind. Paint applied over those problems peels again within two or three seasons, usually starting on the south and east walls that face the sun and the water.
We price and plan the prep before we talk about color. Our painters work from the top down, scraping, feathering edges, priming every bare spot and caulking the gaps before a single finish coat goes on. The topcoat is a quality exterior acrylic chosen for the surface, and we schedule each side of the house around sun, dew, sea breeze and rain so the coating cures properly.

Many houses on Wollaston Hill and around Merrymount carry fifty or more years of oil paint under recent latex. Those old layers get brittle and crack into an alligator pattern, and new paint over them only adds weight. We scrape every loose area with carbide blades, sand the edges so the repair doesn't telegraph through, and spot-prime bare wood with a slow-drying oil or alkyd primer that soaks into weathered fibers.
Where alligatoring covers a whole wall, spot scraping is not enough. We'll discuss heavier removal on that elevation, using lead-safe wet methods or a low-heat infrared paint remover, so the new system sits on a stable base. That costs more, and we explain where it is needed and where it isn't, wall by wall, in the written estimate.
We use 100 percent acrylic exterior paints because they stay flexible as wood swells in July humidity and shrinks in a January cold snap. Satin or low-luster is our usual sheen for siding, since it sheds dirt better than flat and hides minor surface waves on old clapboard. Trim, doors and sashes get a semi-gloss or gloss for wear resistance.
Within a few blocks of Wollaston Beach, Quincy Shore Drive or Marina Bay, salt film and wind-driven rain wear coatings faster. We rinse the salt off before priming, prime more thoroughly on the water side and suggest a recoat cycle a little shorter than on houses near the Blue Hills. Dark colors on south walls run hotter and move more, which matters on wood that has already cupped.
Lead-safe exterior work starts with plastic ground sheeting that extends out from the foundation, weighted at the edges, to catch scraped chips. Windows and doors near the work area are closed, and shrubs are tied back or covered loosely so they can breathe. On Quincy streets where two-families sit a driveway apart, we coordinate with the neighbor so their side yard and car are protected too.
Debris is collected every afternoon, not at the end of the job, and the sheeting is misted on windy days, which near the bay is most days. Ladders and staging go up where they won't crush beds, and we walk the yard with you before the last painter leaves.
Once the scraping is done, soft wood shows up: window sills, the bottoms of corner boards, the lowest course of clapboard above the granite foundation and the drip cap over doors. We probe suspect spots and mark them with you. Small areas get an epoxy consolidant and filler, and boards that have lost their shape get replaced with primed stock before painting continues, so the schedule doesn't stall waiting on a separate trade.
We walk all four sides, note paint condition, rot, height and access, and give you a written estimate that spells out the prep level for each elevation.
The house is soft washed or low-pressure rinsed to remove dirt, salt film and mildew, then left to dry for at least a full day before scraping.
Ground plastic goes down, and our painters wet scrape, sand and clean each side, collecting chips daily and HEPA vacuuming sills and porch floors.
Rotted spots are consolidated or replaced, bare wood gets oil primer, and open joints are caulked so the siding is sealed before finish coats.
Siding gets two coats of exterior acrylic, trim and doors get enamel, timed around morning dew and afternoon sun so each coat goes on dry wood.
We walk the house with you, mark any misses, touch them up, remove the containment and leave a labeled can of each color.
The range reflects a typical two-story wood-frame single-family house with full scraping, spot priming and two topcoats. Small capes in South Quincy fall below it, while large Wollaston Hill Victorians, two-families and triple-deckers run higher. A walk-through sets the real number.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Strips or flakes on the south and west walls usually appear first and mean the film there has lost its bond to the wood underneath.
Run a palm across the siding. A heavy white powder means the binder has broken down and the paint is no longer shedding water well.
Wood that has weathered gray has lost surface fibers to sun and salt, and it needs sanding and primer before paint will grip again.
Gaps at butt joints, corner boards and window casings let water behind the siding, which shows up later as blistering and rot.
Dark staining on shaded walls or under porch roofs means moisture lingers there, and mildew left in place will grow through new paint.
A cracked, scaly pattern on old oil-painted trim cannot be fixed with another coat and needs heavier removal first.
Quincy is a city of wood. Colonial Revivals and Foursquares on Wollaston Hill, Victorians near Merrymount and Furnace Brook Parkway, two-families in North Quincy and Montclair, and shingled cottages out on Houghs Neck all have clapboard or shingle walls that move with the seasons. Many were painted in oil for decades, then switched to latex, and that mismatch is behind a lot of the peeling we scrape. Houses later sided with vinyl often still have painted wood trim, and that trim gets ignored until it rots.
The painting season here runs roughly May through October. Spring brings cool nights and heavy dew that slow drying, mid-summer brings humid heat, and by late October the nights are too cold for most acrylics to cure. Nor'easters push wind-driven rain off Quincy Bay into every joint, and ice dams wet the cornices each winter, so caulking and priming matter more here than in a dry inland climate.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
A two-story single-family house usually takes one to two weeks of working days, depending on prep and weather. Washing and drying come first, then scraping and repairs, then priming, then finish coats. Rain days and heavy dew mornings push the schedule, so we plan with a buffer and keep you posted as the forecast changes.
Most acrylic exterior paints need air and surface temperatures above roughly 35 to 50 degrees, depending on the product, through the drying period. Around Quincy that usually means finishing by late October. Short fall days also leave less dry time between dew burning off and evening dampness, so we start late-season jobs on the coldest sides first.
Not usually. Full removal is expensive and rarely needed. We remove everything loose, sand edges smooth, prime bare wood and paint over sound old coats. Where an entire wall is alligatored or peeling down to wood, we recommend heavier removal on that wall only and explain the cost difference in the estimate.
Most Quincy houses were built before 1978, so we presume the old exterior paint contains lead. Our painters use ground containment, wet scraping, no open-flame burning and daily cleanup. We close nearby windows, protect gardens and coordinate with neighbors on tight lots so chips and dust stay on the plastic.
Somewhat. Salt film left on siding weakens adhesion, and wind-driven spray erodes the topcoat on the water side faster. We rinse salt off before priming, prime bare wood carefully and use a quality acrylic. Houses close to Quincy Shore Drive may need the bay-facing wall recoated a couple of years before the sheltered sides.
Usually, yes. Satin or low-luster on siding hides small waves and sheds dirt, while semi-gloss or gloss on trim, doors and sashes stands up to handling and makes the details read clearly. Two-families with stacked porches look sharper with that contrast, and it makes cleaning the trim easier.
Clapboard that has split at the nails, aluminum siding that leaves white chalk on your sleeve and vinyl that has faded unevenly all need a different.
How we do itWindow sills, sashes, corner boards and cornices take the worst of the weather, and on many Quincy houses the trim is peeling and soft long before.
How we do itA screwdriver sinks into your window sill, the corner board crumbles at the bottom, or a porch column has gone soft.
How we do itGreen streaks on the north wall, black mildew on porch ceilings and a gray salt film off Quincy Bay make a house look neglected, and they keep new.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.