A period room with trim to frame it
Dining rooms with picture rails, Victorian front halls and stairwells with tall ceilings are natural places for pattern, and paper suits many Wollaston Hill houses.
You've chosen a paper you love, but the walls are wavy horsehair plaster, the corners lean, and a mismatched seam at eye level would spoil the whole dining room.

$74 to $157Typical per single roll hung in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Wallpaper installation in Quincy involves repairing and smoothing the walls, applying a wallcovering primer, planning the layout and pattern match, then hanging each strip with the correct adhesive and trimming seams and edges cleanly. Typical ranges run $74 to $157 per single roll for labor, depending on the paper and the wall condition. The walk-through sets the real number for your room.
A wallpaper job is mostly decided before the first strip goes up. The walls must be sound, smooth and sealed with the right primer. The pattern needs a starting point that hides the inevitable final mismatch in a corner nobody looks at. The adhesive has to suit the paper, whether that's a traditional pulp paper, a pre-pasted vinyl, a nonwoven paste-the-wall product or a hand-printed designer roll that needs edge trimming.
Our paperhangers work in dining rooms, powder rooms, bedrooms, stairwells, entry halls and accent walls across Quincy, Milton, Needham, Wellesley and Newton. Many of these rooms have plaster that has moved over a century, out-of-plumb corners, picture rails and tall baseboards. We check every wall, count rolls with you, look at the dye lot numbers and talk through where the pattern will start before we open a single roll.

Wallpaper shows every flaw under it, so we start by repairing cracks in plaster, tightening loose areas, filling dents and skim coating where the surface is rough or patched. Bare plaster and fresh joint compound are porous and pull moisture out of paste too fast, so the paper won't slide into position and seams open. Glossy old paint has the opposite problem: paste can't grip it.
A dedicated wallcovering primer solves both. It seals the wall, gives the paste something to grab and, just as important, makes future removal far easier because the paper releases from the primer rather than tearing the plaster face. On some traditional papers we also apply sizing, a thin coat that adds slip and tack. A pigmented primer tinted close to the background color keeps hairline gaps at seams from showing.
Every patterned paper has a repeat and a match type printed on the label. A straight match lines up horizontally across every strip. A half-drop match shifts the pattern down by half the repeat on every other strip, which uses more paper and needs careful cutting. Random match papers, such as many textures and stripes, can be hung without aligning motifs, though reverse hanging may be recommended on some.
We plan the layout so the dominant motif sits at a pleasing height, usually just below the ceiling line or picture rail, and centers on the room's focal point, such as a fireplace or a bay window. The final strip always meets the first with a partial mismatch, so we place that seam in the least visible corner, often behind a door. Roll counts include waste for the repeat, so we'll check your order before work begins.
Clay-based adhesives grab fast and hold heavy papers firmly, which suits textured and heavy vinyl wallcoverings. Clear adhesives stay cleaner on the face of delicate papers and allow more open time for positioning. Nonwoven papers are hung by pasting the wall directly. Traditional papers are pasted on the back, then booked, folded paste to paste, and left to relax for the time the maker specifies so they expand before hanging and don't shrink at the seams later.
Where a seam falls in a tricky spot, or where hand-trimmed edges aren't perfectly straight, we overlap two strips and double cut through both layers with a fresh blade along a straightedge, then peel away the waste. The two edges then meet exactly. We wipe paste off the face immediately with clean water and a sponge, change blades often, and roll seams lightly so they don't burnish or shine.
We measure the walls, confirm the repeat and match type, count rolls with waste, check dye lots and agree on where the pattern starts and ends.
Furniture is moved, floors are covered, outlets and switch plates come off, and plaster is repaired, skimmed and sanded until the surface is flat.
A wallcovering primer goes on every wall, tinted near the paper's background color, and sizing is added where the manufacturer calls for it.
We mark a true vertical from the starting point because old corners are rarely square, then cut the first strips with the motif at the planned height.
Strips are pasted and booked or hung on a pasted wall, matched, smoothed, seamed and trimmed at ceiling, baseboard and casings with fresh blades.
We wipe the face, reinstall plates, clean up offcuts and walk the room with you under good light, checking seams, edges and corners.
The range covers labor to prime and hang standard residential papers on walls in fair condition. Half-drop matches, hand-trimmed papers, tall stairwells and heavy wall repair push the price up. The paper itself is separate, and the walk-through sets the real number.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Dining rooms with picture rails, Victorian front halls and stairwells with tall ceilings are natural places for pattern, and paper suits many Wollaston Hill houses.
A heavier wallcovering over a well-prepared, skim coated wall can disguise old repairs better than paint, which shows every ridge under raking light.
Powder rooms and entry halls take few rolls, so a designer paper with a bold pattern can be a modest cost for a large visual change.
Faded, stained or peeling wallpaper is a sign it's time to remove it and start fresh, with the walls properly primed for the new installation.
Scrubbable vinyl and nonwoven wallcoverings hold up in shared front halls and back stairs of Quincy two-families better than flat paint does.
Wallpaper has a long history in Quincy houses. The Victorians and Colonial Revivals on Wollaston Hill and around Merrymount were often papered when new, from the front hall up the stairs, and the dining rooms of older two-families in North Quincy had borders and picture rails meant for it. Under later paint we regularly find old paper, sometimes several layers, glued straight to horsehair plaster. That plaster is usually solid, but it has hairline cracks, bulges near ceilings and corners that lean.
Farther out, the Colonials and Tudors of Milton, Needham and Wellesley still keep papered dining rooms and powder rooms, and owners there tend to choose designer papers with large repeats. We plan around old-house quirks with a plumb line rather than trusting the corner, skim coating where old paper left ridges, and steady room temperature while paste cures through humid coastal summers. In pre-1978 homes, paint and plaster prep is presumed to involve lead, so sanding happens with containment and HEPA cleanup.
Planning paper for a room? Our wallpaper roll calculator counts double rolls from your room size, pattern repeat and match.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
Yes, as long as the plaster is sound and sealed. We repair cracks, fasten loose areas, skim coat rough or patched spots, sand it flat and apply a wallcovering primer. The primer stops porous plaster from drying the paste too fast and makes the paper removable later without damaging the wall. Hanging on unprimed plaster causes seam problems and painful removal.
It depends on the wall area, the pattern repeat and the match type, since larger repeats and half-drop matches create more waste. A modest dining room with a picture rail might take eight to twelve single rolls, but we measure and calculate the count with you before you order. Buy every roll from one dye lot and order a spare.
Usually a little, yes. A half-drop pattern shifts down by half a repeat on every other strip, so each cut has to be planned and matched, and the room uses more paper. A straight match lines up at the same height on every strip and moves faster. The labor difference shows up in the per-roll range we give at the walk-through.
We'll be candid about it. Peel-and-stick works best on smooth, sound, satin-painted walls in low-humidity rooms. On older plaster with texture, or in a steamy second-floor bathroom, it tends to lift at the edges. For most Quincy rooms we recommend a nonwoven paste-the-wall paper, which goes up cleanly, holds firmly and still strips off dry later.
Yes, with the right product and prep. We use a vinyl or nonwoven wallcovering rated for humid rooms, a mildew-resistant primer and a strong adhesive, and we seal edges near the tub and sink. A working exhaust fan matters even more in damp coastal houses, because it keeps seams tight. Grasscloth and delicate unsealed papers belong in other rooms.
Old wallpaper is peeling at the seams, painted over, or stuck in three layers to plaster that crumbles when you scrape.
How we do itOld plaster walls that are cracked, patched, wavy or scarred from wallpaper removal will show every flaw through fresh paint or new paper, and spot.
How we do itGrasscloth is a natural woven fiber, so every roll varies in tone and seams show more than on printed paper.
How we do itA wall mural only works if the image lines up across every panel and the wall underneath is flat enough not to telegraph cracks, bumps or old seams.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.