Glazing putty falling out
Cracked or missing putty leaves panes loose and lets water into the sash, which soon leads to rot at the bottom rail.
Window sills, sashes, corner boards and cornices take the worst of the weather, and on many Quincy houses the trim is peeling and soft long before the siding or vinyl around it looks tired.

$275 to $615Typical per window in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Exterior trim and window painting in Quincy covers scraping and priming casings, sills, corner boards, fascia and cornice; reglazing loose putty on wood sashes; consolidating soft wood; and finishing with a gloss or semi-gloss acrylic enamel. Typical ranges run $275 to $615 per window including its casing and sill, with trim runs priced by length. A walk-through sets the real number.
Trim is where water collects. Sills hold rain, the bottom rails of sashes stay damp after a nor'easter, cornices take gutter overflow and ice-dam meltwater, and corner boards wick moisture from the ground. Paint on those surfaces cracks first and lets water into end grain, and once soft spots form, the next repaint has to start with carpentry.
A trim-only job is often the most cost-effective exterior work on a house with sound siding or vinyl walls, and that describes a lot of Quincy. Our painters focus on the details: glazing putty, sash edges, sill tops, fascia joints and brackets. Doing those well keeps original windows working and keeps rot out of the frame.

Cracked or missing putty leaves panes loose and lets water into the sash, which soon leads to rot at the bottom rail.
If a screwdriver sinks into a window sill or the base of a casing, rot has started and needs repair before painting.
Paint flaking under the roof edge usually means gutter overflow or ice dams are wetting the trim, which should be checked at the same time.
Gaps where casing pieces meet at corners let water into the joint, and paint over an open joint cracks again quickly.
Layers of paint on the jambs or worn parting beads cause sticking, and repainting is a good time to free and adjust them.
Corner boards that stay dark after rain near the ground are absorbing splash-back water and need priming and sealing.
Many Wollaston Hill and Merrymount houses still have original wood sashes, often old-growth pine that outlasts modern replacements when maintained. The glazing putty that seals each pane dries, cracks and falls out, and paint on the bottom rail fails next. We remove loose putty, prime the bare wood rabbet, bed new glazing compound and let it skin over before painting.
The finish coat laps a hair onto the glass to seal the putty line. We paint sashes so they still slide, keeping paint off the parting beads and jamb channels and breaking any paint seal before we leave.
Sills and the bottoms of casings rot from the end grain inward. We probe every sill, and where the wood is soft but the shape is intact, we drill small holes, flood the area with a two-part epoxy consolidant, then rebuild with epoxy filler that can be shaped and sanded. That keeps the original sill and avoids tearing out casing and siding to replace it.
Where a sill or trim board is too far gone, we cut in a new piece of rot-resistant stock, back-primed on all faces. Joints between trim pieces get a flexible exterior caulk after priming.
High trim on Victorian and Colonial Revival houses, cornices, brackets, dentils and frieze boards, carries some of the thickest old paint on the building. It also sits right where ice dams form in a cold Quincy winter, when snowmelt backs up under the shingles and runs behind the fascia. We look for the telltale peeling and brown staining along the roof edge and probe the fascia before painting.
Then we scrape, sand edges, spot-prime with an oil-based primer and apply two coats of acrylic enamel in a semi-gloss or gloss. The higher sheen sheds water and dirt and makes the profiles read clearly from the street.
Brackets and dentil blocks often have open end grain facing up, which drinks water every storm. We seal those tops with primer and an extra brushed coat, and fill small checks with exterior wood filler before the enamel goes on.
At the walk-through we count windows, probe sills and casings, check glazing and photograph rot so you see exactly which pieces need repair.
Trim is scraped wet over ground containment, sashes are scraped carefully around the glass and chips are collected each day.
Soft wood is consolidated and filled or replaced, and loose glazing is removed, the rabbet primed and new compound bedded.
Bare wood gets oil primer, joints between trim pieces get flexible caulk, and nail holes are filled before the finish coats.
Trim and sashes get two coats of acrylic enamel, with the paint line sealing glazing and the window tracks kept clean.
We break any paint seals, check each sash moves, scrape paint off the glass, reinstall storms and remove containment.
The range covers scraping, priming and painting one window sash set with its casing and sill, plus spot reglazing. Simple single windows sit at the low end, while large double-hung windows with heavy reglazing and sill repair sit near the top. A walk-through sets the real number.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Quincy has some of the oldest houses in the region, and the area around Adams National Historical Park shows how long wood trim can last when it is kept painted. Most of the trim we work on is younger: Italianate and Queen Anne cornices on Wollaston Hill, Colonial Revival casings near Merrymount and Furnace Brook Parkway, and the painted wood trim left on vinyl-sided two-families in North Quincy. Owners in a local historic district should check with the city before changing windows or exterior trim, since some changes may need review.
Freeze-thaw winters drive water into sill end grain, then freeze and open it further. Ice dams on older, poorly vented roofs push meltwater behind fascia and cornice boards, and nor'easters drive rain sideways into window heads. Trim painting here is usually done between May and October, with sills and south-facing windows scheduled for dry, mild days so primer and putty cure properly.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
Original wood windows in good structural shape usually last for decades with reglazing and paint. Replacement removes historic fabric and doesn't always pay back in energy savings. We repair sills, reglaze and repaint sashes, and if a window is truly beyond repair, we'll tell you plainly at the walk-through.
Traditional oil-based glazing putty needs to skin over before paint, often a few days to a couple of weeks depending on product and weather, and cool fall days slow it down. Some modern glazing compounds can be painted much sooner. We choose the product to fit the schedule and the maker's guidance so paint doesn't wrinkle over soft putty.
Yes. Trim-only work is common on vinyl- or aluminum-sided houses and where siding paint is still sound. We match or change the trim color and focus on sills, sashes, porch trim, cornices and corner boards. It's a smaller job that protects the parts of the house that fail first.
Often. When a sill is soft but still holds its shape, a two-part epoxy consolidant soaks into the wood, and an epoxy filler rebuilds missing sections. Once cured, it's sanded, primed and painted. It saves the original sill and avoids removing casings and siding.
Paint can protect the fascia, but it can't stop ice dams. The cause is usually heat escaping into the attic and poor roof venting. We repair soft fascia, prime and repaint it, and point out the pattern so you can talk to a roofer or insulation contractor. Without that fix, the same section tends to peel again within a few winters.
When the exterior sashes or casing behind them need paint, we usually remove triple-track or wood storm windows, then reinstall them. Some aluminum storms are fixed to the casing with caulk and screws, and we note at the walk-through whether removal is practical or whether painting around them is the better choice.
Peeling clapboard, chalky trim and bare gray wood on the weather side of a Quincy house mean the old paint film has stopped protecting the siding,.
How we do itA screwdriver sinks into your window sill, the corner board crumbles at the bottom, or a porch column has gone soft.
How we do itA Victorian on Wollaston Hill or a Federal-era house near Adams Street carries generations of paint, original wood you can't buy off the shelf, and a.
How we do itClapboard that has split at the nails, aluminum siding that leaves white chalk on your sleeve and vinyl that has faded unevenly all need a different.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.