Walls that look flat and thin
A dining room, entry or stair hall with tall ceilings feels dull in standard paint, and you want a finish with depth and quiet movement.
Flat paint can look thin in a room with tall ceilings and old plaster, and many owners want walls with real depth, soft movement in the color and a surface that catches light.

$10.15 to $23.70Typical per sq ft of wall in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Venetian plaster and limewash finishes in Quincy start with a flat, primed wall, then thin troweled coats of lime or acrylic plaster burnished to a soft sheen, or brushed layers of limewash for a chalky, cloudy look. Typical ranges run about $10.15 to $23.70 per square foot of wall, and the walk-through sets the real number after we see the surface.
Venetian plaster and limewash are both mineral-style finishes, but they look and work differently. Venetian plaster is a fine lime or acrylic plaster applied in several thin coats with a steel trowel, then burnished until it develops a stone-like sheen with depth you can almost see into. Limewash is a thin, brushed coating made from slaked lime and pigment that dries chalky, matte and softly mottled.
Both depend on skilled hand work, and both suit the older housing around Quincy, from plaster dining rooms on Wollaston Hill to brick fireplaces in Braintree capes and exposed brick in Waltham mill lofts. Our painters prepare the wall, lay out samples and build the finish in layers, so the result looks intentional rather than patchy.

Venetian plaster starts with a smooth, sound wall. Cracks are repaired, waves are skimmed flat, and the surface is primed with a primer the plaster maker recommends, often a tinted, slightly gritty primer for grip. The first coat goes on thin with a stainless steel trowel in short, overlapping strokes, leaving some areas thinner than others.
After it dries, a second coat fills in, and sometimes a third. On the final coat, while it's still slightly damp, we burnish: pressing the trowel flat and working in tight arcs, which compresses the plaster and brings up a sheen. A clear wax or sealer can follow in kitchens, baths or high-touch areas to resist water spotting.
Limewash is thinner than paint, closer to a wash. It goes on with a wide masonry or block brush in loose, crossing strokes, and it soaks into porous surfaces like brick, stone, unpainted plaster or a mineral primer. As it cures, it reacts with air and hardens into a matte, breathable surface.
The character comes from layering. We usually apply two or three coats, each one slightly irregular, so the color clouds and varies across the wall. Wetting the surface first and working in sections keeps lap marks soft. On brick, limewash can be partly washed back while fresh to let some of the masonry show through, a look many owners want on a loft wall or a living room fireplace.
Horsehair plaster is a good base once it's sound and skimmed, but it carries layers of paint, and lime finishes don't bond directly to glossy latex. So we sand and prime with a mineral or bonding primer first. Unpainted brick and stone take limewash naturally, including the fieldstone and granite you still find in some Quincy and Milton houses. Drywall works well with acrylic Venetian plaster after priming.
Some places don't suit them. Limewash wears on high-traffic lower walls unless sealed, and true lime Venetian plaster shouldn't go behind a shower without proper sealing. On pre-1978 painted surfaces, any sanding to prepare the wall is done with lead-safe containment and HEPA cleanup before the decorative layers start.
We look at the walls, light and use of the room, then make sample boards in your chosen colors so you can see the finish before committing.
Floors are covered, trim and ceilings are masked, and furniture is moved, because limewash and plaster splatter more than ordinary paint.
Cracks are fixed, waves are skimmed, and the wall gets a primer chosen for the finish, often a mineral primer for lime or a tinted grip primer.
Venetian plaster goes on in thin troweled coats; limewash goes on in brushed, overlapping layers, each one dried before the next.
Venetian plaster is burnished to its final sheen while slightly damp, while limewash on brick may be partly washed back for a softer look.
Wax or sealer goes on in wet or busy areas, masking comes off, and we walk the finished wall with you in natural and evening light.
This typical range covers prep, priming and a finished decorative surface, with limewash on brick or primed walls at the lower end and multi-coat burnished Venetian plaster at the upper end. It's a planning figure, and the walk-through sets the real number once we see the wall.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
A dining room, entry or stair hall with tall ceilings feels dull in standard paint, and you want a finish with depth and quiet movement.
A brick wall in a loft or older house is patchy or too red, and limewash would soften and unify it while keeping the masonry texture.
A brick or stone fireplace looks dated, and you'd like a chalky, aged look without the solid coat of paint that hides the masonry.
A dining room, bar or retail space wants a warm, hand-finished wall that photographs well and stands out without busy wallpaper.
You've repaired old plaster and want a finish that suits its handmade character, not a glossy coat that shows every wave.
A small bathroom or entry can carry a polished plaster or limewash finish that would feel like too much across a whole house.
Many older houses around Quincy already have the bones for these finishes. Colonial Revival and Victorian houses on Wollaston Hill and near Merrymount have high ceilings, deep window casings and plaster walls that look handsome under a burnished plaster with soft light moving across it. Larger Colonials and Tudors in Milton, Needham and Wellesley have formal dining rooms that can carry deeper colors in Venetian plaster where flat paint would look heavy. Postwar capes in South Quincy and Braintree often have a brick fireplace that limewash quiets down nicely.
Converted mills offer another setting. Lofts in the old Charles River mill buildings in Waltham and in Watertown often have long brick walls that owners want to soften without hiding. Limewash suits them because it breathes and lets moisture move through masonry. Humid summers near the bay and dry, heated winters mean we watch cure times closely, and we avoid applying lime finishes when the room is unusually cold or damp.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
Venetian plaster is a fine plaster troweled in thin coats and burnished to a smooth, stone-like sheen. Limewash is a thin, brushed lime coating that dries matte and chalky, with soft cloudy variation. Venetian plaster suits polished interior walls; limewash suits brick, stone and walls where you want a relaxed, aged look.
Yes, once the old plaster is sound. We reattach loose areas, fill cracks, skim the wall flat and prime it with the plaster maker's recommended primer. Painted plaster in pre-1978 houses is sanded with lead-safe containment first. A well-prepared old plaster wall makes a good base for Venetian plaster.
Limewash is hard once cured but can wear and mark on high-touch areas like lower stair walls. For busy halls, we may recommend a breathable sealer over the limewash, or a different finish below a chair rail. It holds up very well on upper walls, ceilings, brick and fireplaces where hands and bags rarely touch it.
Yes, with sealing. A burnished Venetian plaster in a powder room or a bath away from direct shower spray can be protected with wax or a clear sealer to resist water spotting. Inside a shower enclosure, we'd suggest a product made for wet areas, or tile. The bathroom also needs a working exhaust fan.
Limewash is easier to change than paint. It can wear back over time, be washed back while fresh, or be scrubbed and pressure washed later with some effort. It's not completely removable from porous brick, so expect some residue. Paint, by contrast, is much harder to take off masonry.
A single feature wall often takes three to four days: one for repair and priming, one or two for plaster coats with drying between, and one for burnishing and sealing. Limewash on brick may take two days. Humid summer weather near Quincy Bay can slow drying, so we plan the schedule around the season.
A replacement door that doesn't match the oak trim, a dining room that feels plain or a mantel that needs character are all problems a skilled faux.
How we do itOld plaster walls that are cracked, patched, wavy or scarred from wallpaper removal will show every flaw through fresh paint or new paper, and spot.
How we do itWalls that crack again a month after painting, flat paint that scuffs when you wipe it, and old oil layers that peel off in sheets: most Quincy.
How we do itPainted brick that blisters, flakes or sheds white powder is usually trapping water inside the wall.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.