Paint failing down to bare wood
Large areas of peeling or alligatored paint show the wood beneath, and spot scraping and a quick coat won't hold over many layers of old oil paint.
A Victorian on Wollaston Hill or a Federal-era house near Adams Street carries generations of paint, original wood you can't buy off the shelf, and a style that deserves colors from its own period.

$14,650 to $38,920Typical per house exterior in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Historic home painting in Quincy means researching period-appropriate colors, hand scraping and repairing original clapboard, trim and sash, priming bare wood, and repainting with lead-safe methods. Owners in a local historic district should check with the city or town about any review. Typical exterior ranges run about $14,650 to $38,920 per house, and the walk-through sets the real number.
Old houses ask for a different pace. Original clapboards are often old-growth wood, denser and more stable than anything sold today, and worth saving. Window sashes may still hold wavy cylinder glass. Cornices, brackets and porch columns were built by hand and can't be bought new. Painting them well means slow prep, careful repair and finishes that suit both the wood and the house's period.
Our painters approach a historic house as a building to keep, not a surface to cover. That means scraping by hand rather than blasting, repairing rather than replacing where wood is sound, researching colors that fit the architecture, and treating all old paint as lead-containing. The result is a paint job that looks right for the house and holds up through South Shore winters and salt wind off Quincy Bay.

Color research starts with the house itself. We look at the architecture and approximate build date, then, where the owner wants it, take small paint samples from protected spots, under a cornice, inside a shutter or behind a downspout, and scrape back the layers to see early colors. That history isn't a rule, but it's a useful starting point.
Federal and early nineteenth century houses, like the older homes scattered around Quincy Center and Milton Hill, were often painted in light, restrained schemes: whites, creams, pale yellows or grays, with dark green or black shutters. Queen Anne and Italianate houses on Wollaston Hill took richer, multi-color schemes, with body, trim and accent colors picking out brackets, window hoods and shingles. Colonial Revival houses sit in between. We show options in historically grounded palettes and test patches on the house before committing.
Prep on a historic house is mostly hand work. Loose paint is misted and scraped with carbide scrapers, edges are feathered by hand sanding or HEPA-attached sanders, and bare wood is primed promptly so it doesn't weather. We avoid pressure washing old clapboard at high pressure, because it drives water into the wood and joints.
Repairs come next. Small rot in sills, trim and clapboard ends is consolidated with epoxy and filled. Larger rot is cut out and replaced with a matching piece, a dutchman, shaped to the original profile. Window glazing putty is checked and replaced where it's failed, and joints are caulked where caulk belongs, not in places where the house needs to breathe, like the laps between clapboards.
Old-growth wood under many layers of oil paint needs a primer that bonds to both bare wood and aged coatings. We often use a slow-drying oil-based or alkyd primer on bare and weathered wood, because it soaks into the grain, then top it with high-quality acrylic finish coats that stay flexible through freeze-thaw cycles.
Sheen matters on a historic exterior. Flat or low-luster on the body reads closer to period paint and hides minor waviness in old clapboards. Satin or semi-gloss on trim, sash and doors stands up to handling and sheds water. Where an owner wants a more traditional finish, linseed oil paint is an option on trim and sash, with a slower recoat schedule.
Several communities we work in, including Quincy, Milton and Dedham, have historic houses and protected areas, and exterior changes to a property in a local historic district may need review before work starts. Owners should check with the city or town about whether their project needs approval and what's required. We don't speak for any board on what's allowed, so the owner's direct confirmation is the safest route.
We can help by preparing a clear scope, describing repair methods, materials and the proposed color scheme, so you have what you need for any application. We also schedule around review timing so painters aren't waiting on a ladder while paperwork clears.
We go around the house side by side, noting paint failure, rot, window condition and details like brackets and cornices that need special care.
We review period options, test patches on the house, and give you a written scope you can use for any historic district review your city or town requires.
Plastic goes down around the house, windows are closed, and work areas are set up for wet scraping and HEPA cleanup throughout the job.
Loose paint is misted and scraped, rot is consolidated or replaced with matching wood, and windows are reglazed where putty has failed.
Bare wood is primed promptly, then finish coats go on side by side, timed around dew, temperature and wind on each elevation.
Debris is bagged, the ground is cleaned, and we walk the house with you to check details, colors and trim before we pack up.
This typical range covers a full exterior repaint of an older single-family or two-family home, with hand prep, lead-safe practices, routine wood repair and two finish coats. Large Victorians with heavy ornament and many windows run higher. It's a planning figure, and the walk-through sets the real number.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Large areas of peeling or alligatored paint show the wood beneath, and spot scraping and a quick coat won't hold over many layers of old oil paint.
Window sills, corner boards, porch rails or cornice returns are soft, which means repair should come before paint, not after.
A past repaint used colors that clash with the architecture, and you want a scheme that suits a Federal, Queen Anne or Colonial Revival house.
Old sashes with failing putty and peeling paint still work, and you'd rather restore and repaint them than replace them.
Your house is in or near a local historic district, and you want a careful written scope that suits review, if the city or town requires one.
The house hasn't been painted in many years and needs wood repair, glazing and lead-safe prep before any finish coat goes on.
Quincy calls itself the City of Presidents, and the neighborhoods around Adams National Historical Park and Adams Street still hold old wood-frame houses from the city's farm and granite years. Wollaston Hill is full of Queen Annes, Colonial Revivals and Foursquares with porches, bays and shingled gables. Next door, Milton Hill and the Canton Avenue area carry large Federal, Greek Revival and Shingle Style houses, and the streets around Dedham Square mix Federal houses with Victorians.
Weather is hard on all of them. Freeze-thaw winters push water into joints, nor'easters drive rain into clapboard laps, and humid summers keep north sides damp and mildewed. Salt air off Quincy Bay adds to the wear on east-facing trim. We schedule exterior work in the May through October season, start each side after the morning dew has burned off, and stop in time for paint to set before evening.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
Exterior work on a property in a local historic district may need review before it starts, and requirements can depend on the district and the type of work. Owners should check directly with their city or town. We can provide a written scope, materials list and color scheme to help with any application, and we'll schedule the job around review timing.
Usually. Old-growth clapboards are denser than modern siding and often sound under failing paint. We hand scrape, prime bare wood promptly, and repair damaged ends or sections with epoxy or matching wood. Replacement is limited to boards that are split through or badly rotted, and replacement boards are milled to match the original profile.
We start with the architecture and build era, look at what suits the style, and, if you'd like, sample paint layers in protected spots to see earlier colors. Then we review period palettes with you and paint test patches on the house. Final choices are yours; we help you see how options look in real light.
Yes. Old houses have many layers of paint, and pre-1978 paint is presumed to contain lead. We use plastic ground covers, mist before scraping, avoid open-flame stripping and dry power sanding, bag debris daily and HEPA clean. On historic houses with heavy paint buildup, this lead-safe approach is simply how the job is done.
Original wood windows can often be restored. We scrape and repaint sashes and frames, replace failed glazing putty, and repair rotted sills. Restored windows keep the house's character and, with storms, perform well. If a sash is beyond repair, we'll tell you and point out options, but we don't assume replacement is needed.
A large Victorian exterior often takes three to six weeks, depending on prep, repairs, windows and color scheme. Multi-color schemes with brackets, shingles and window hoods take longer than simple two-color jobs. Weather pauses add time, especially in spring and fall near the bay. We'll give you a realistic schedule at the walk-through.
Peeling clapboard, chalky trim and bare gray wood on the weather side of a Quincy house mean the old paint film has stopped protecting the siding,.
How we do itMost Quincy houses were painted long before 1978, so scraping a porch, sanding a window sash or stripping wallpaper can turn old lead paint into dust.
How we do itWindow sills, sashes, corner boards and cornices take the worst of the weather, and on many Quincy houses the trim is peeling and soft long before.
How we do itA screwdriver sinks into your window sill, the corner board crumbles at the bottom, or a porch column has gone soft.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.