Peeling along lap edges
Paint lifting in horizontal lines at the bottom of each board means water is getting under the film at the butts and the laps need priming.
Clapboard that has split at the nails, aluminum siding that leaves white chalk on your sleeve and vinyl that has faded unevenly all need a different paint system, and the wrong one peels within a couple of Quincy winters.

$2.45 to $5.10Typical per sq ft of wall in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Clapboard and siding painting in Quincy starts with identifying the siding: wood clapboard gets scraping, nail setting and oil priming of bare laps; aluminum gets chalk removal and a bonding primer; vinyl gets a thorough cleaning and a vinyl-safe acrylic color. Typical ranges run $2.45 to $5.10 per square foot of wall, and a walk-through sets the real number.
Siding is the largest surface on the house and it ages unevenly. On a Quincy house the street side may have original pine or cedar clapboard, a side wall may have replacement boards from a past repair, and a rear addition may be aluminum or vinyl. Each of those materials takes paint differently, and one product across all of them is a common cause of early peeling.
We start every siding job by looking closely at the boards, not the color. That means checking lap edges for cupping, looking for rusty nail heads bleeding through, testing chalk on metal siding and confirming whether vinyl can safely go darker. The paint system is then matched wall by wall, with the finish coats kept consistent so the house reads as one color from the street.

Paint lifting in horizontal lines at the bottom of each board means water is getting under the film at the butts and the laps need priming.
Rust trails running down clapboard come from old steel nails, and painting over them without priming lets the stain return quickly.
If your hand comes away white after touching aluminum siding, a wash alone won't help and the panels need a bonding primer and new color.
Clapboards that have curled or cracked at the nails let water behind the wall and should be fixed or replaced before painting.
Vinyl that has faded much more on the sunny walls than the shaded ones can be evened out with a vinyl-safe paint color.
Replacement clapboard from past repairs often shows as a different color or texture until the whole wall is primed and repainted.
The bottom edge of each clapboard, the butt, catches water and sun more than the face, and it's where paint peels first. We scrape the butts, sand the lap line and brush primer into the underside so the board is sealed on its exposed edges. Rusty nail heads get set, spot-primed with a rust-inhibiting primer and filled, or they bleed orange streaks through the new color within a year.
Split boards get glued and fastened with stainless nails, which matter near the bay where plain steel corrodes fast. Badly cupped or rotted boards are replaced with new clapboard that we back-prime on all sides before it goes up. Butt joints between boards get caulked, but the horizontal lap line is left open so the wall can drain and breathe.
Aluminum siding from the 1960s and 1970s covers a large share of the postwar capes and ranches in South and West Quincy and in Braintree. Its baked factory finish breaks down into chalk, and paint over chalk lets go in sheets. We wash with a cleaner and a soft brush, rinse, then test with tape. If the surface still chalks, we apply a bonding acrylic primer before two coats of satin exterior acrylic.
Dents and oil-canned panels stay visible under paint, so a satin or low-luster sheen is better than gloss. Corroded spots, common on walls that face the salt wind, get cleaned and spot-primed with a metal primer.
Vinyl can be painted with a coating formulated for vinyl, as long as the new color is not much darker than the original. Dark colors absorb heat, and vinyl that runs too hot warps and buckles. Paint makers publish vinyl-safe color collections based on light reflectance, and we pick from those. Before painting, we clean off mildew and chalk thoroughly, because vinyl is slick and there is little for paint to grip.
If a vinyl-sided house has original wood trim, corner boards or a front porch, we paint those in the same visit so the whole exterior is refreshed together.
At the walk-through we note which walls are wood, aluminum, vinyl or asbestos-cement, test for chalk and point out boards that need repair or replacement.
Walls are washed with the right cleaner for the material, removing mildew, chalk and salt film, then left to dry before any scraping or priming.
Wood laps are scraped and sanded, nails are set and primed, split boards are fastened, and rotted pieces are replaced with back-primed clapboard.
Bare wood gets oil primer, chalky aluminum gets a bonding acrylic primer, and sound vinyl is cleaned and painted with a vinyl-rated coating.
Each wall gets two coats of exterior acrylic in a satin or low-luster sheen, brushed into the laps so the butts are fully covered.
We check each wall from the ground and the ladder, fix any thin spots at the laps and clean up containment and debris.
The range covers cleaning, standard prep, priming where needed and two finish coats on wall area. Vinyl and sound aluminum sit near the bottom, while weathered wood clapboard with many failing laps sits near the top. A walk-through sets the real number.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Quincy Point grew up around the Fore River shipyard, and its early 1900s worker houses and two-families still have long runs of narrow clapboard, often eastern white pine or cedar. Those boards were nailed with early wire nails that now rust, which is why nail bleed is so common there and in Wollaston. The postwar building boom in South and West Quincy, near the old granite quarries and the Blue Hills, added capes and ranches that many owners later wrapped in aluminum, then vinyl on additions and back walls.
Salt air off Quincy Bay in Squantum, Houghs Neck and along Quincy Shore Drive speeds up chalking on aluminum and dries out exposed clapboard faster. Freeze-thaw cycles open cracks at the butts every winter. We time siding work for dry stretches between May and October, starting with walls that get morning sun so dew burns off before painting.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
Usually not. Old-growth clapboard on early 1900s Quincy houses is often denser than new lumber and lasts a long time with good paint. We replace only boards that are split beyond repair, badly cupped or rotted, and back-prime new pieces before installing them. The rest is scraped, primed at the laps and repainted.
With proper cleaning and a bonding primer, a quality acrylic on aluminum siding often lasts eight to ten years or more, depending on sun and salt exposure. The key is removing chalk before painting. Paint applied over chalky aluminum may look fine for a season and then peel in sheets.
It's risky. Dark colors absorb heat and can cause vinyl siding to warp or buckle. Paint makers offer vinyl-safe color collections with tested light reflectance, and we choose from those. If you want a dark look, painting wood trim and doors dark against lighter vinyl walls gives contrast without the warping risk.
The butt edge of each clapboard collects water and gets the most sun, so the paint film there cracks first. Water then gets behind it and pushes it off. We scrape and prime the undersides of failing laps, set and prime rusty nails and leave the lap line uncaulked so the wall can drain.
Yes, if it's intact. Asbestos-cement shingle siding can be cleaned gently and coated with exterior acrylic. We don't sand, scrape aggressively, power wash at high pressure or cut it. Broken or crumbling shingles need a specialist for removal or repair before any painting.
Sometimes. The wall facing the water or the afternoon sun often fails years before the others. Repainting that wall alone protects the wood, but the new color may look slightly different from older walls. We match the color closely and stop the work at a natural break such as a corner board.
Peeling clapboard, chalky trim and bare gray wood on the weather side of a Quincy house mean the old paint film has stopped protecting the siding,.
How we do itGreen streaks on the north wall, black mildew on porch ceilings and a gray salt film off Quincy Bay make a house look neglected, and they keep new.
How we do itA screwdriver sinks into your window sill, the corner board crumbles at the bottom, or a porch column has gone soft.
How we do itWindow sills, sashes, corner boards and cornices take the worst of the weather, and on many Quincy houses the trim is peeling and soft long before.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.