A web of hairline cracks
Fine cracks spread across the wall like a map, which is common on old plaster and comes back through paint within a season or two.
Old plaster walls that are cracked, patched, wavy or scarred from wallpaper removal will show every flaw through fresh paint or new paper, and spot patching alone rarely gets them flat enough.

$2.62 to $5.09Typical per sq ft of wall in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Skim coating in Quincy means reattaching loose plaster, bridging cracks with fiberglass mesh, then troweling two or three thin coats of joint compound over the whole wall and sanding it flat for paint or wallpaper. Typical ranges run about $2.62 to $5.09 per square foot of wall, and the walk-through sets the real number based on wall condition.
Skim coating is the step between a damaged wall and a good finish. Instead of chasing individual cracks and dents, we cover the whole surface with thin layers of joint compound, so the wall becomes one flat, even plane. It's the most reliable fix for horsehair plaster with a web of hairline cracks, old patches that never quite feathered in, or the torn paper face left after stubborn wallpaper comes off.
It's also prep that most people never see. The paint or paper gets the attention, but the flatness underneath decides whether an eggshell wall looks crisp or rippled in low winter sun. For grasscloth, murals and thin papers, a skimmed wall is often the difference between a clean job and visible seams. We skim in Quincy two-families and Wollaston Hill Victorians most weeks, and in older Colonials across Dedham, Milton and Westwood.

Plaster cracks come back when the plaster underneath is still moving. So the first step is to check for loose areas: we press and tap the wall, listening for hollow spots where the plaster keys have broken off the lath. Those areas get reattached with plaster washers and screws, or with a plaster adhesive injected through small holes, before any compound goes on.
Next, cracks are opened slightly and filled with a setting-type compound, which hardens chemically and shrinks less than premixed mud. Then we embed fiberglass mesh tape across the cracks, or a full mesh sheet over badly crazed areas, so the skim coat has reinforcement where the wall is weakest.
We usually skim with a lightweight or all-purpose joint compound thinned slightly so it spreads in a thin, even layer. It goes on with a wide trowel, a 12-inch to 14-inch blade or a long skimming blade, pulled across the wall in overlapping passes. Each coat is thin, often no thicker than a credit card, and dries before the next goes on at a different angle.
Between coats we knock down ridges with a pole sander. After the final coat, we sand with fine grit and check the wall with a bright work light held flat to the surface, which throws shadows on any remaining dips. Low spots get a touch-up pass. Dust is controlled with drop cloths, sealed doorways and vacuum-attached sanders where the room allows.
Fresh joint compound is soft and very porous. Paint rolled straight onto it soaks in unevenly and dries blotchy, a problem called flashing. Wallpaper paste does worse: it soaks into raw compound, and the paper may never strip cleanly later. So every skimmed wall gets a primer chosen for what goes on next.
For paint, that's usually a drywall primer or a high-build primer that also fills fine sanding scratches. For wallpaper, it's a pigmented wallcovering primer that gives paste a consistent surface and leaves the wall strippable. If the old plaster had water stains from an ice dam or smoke staining from an old fireplace, we spot prime with a stain-blocking primer first so nothing bleeds through.
We tap and press the walls for loose plaster, check for moisture, and look at the surface under a work light to judge how many coats it will need.
Furniture is moved or covered, floors get drop cloths and paper, doorways are sealed with plastic, and outlet covers and switch plates come off.
Loose plaster is reattached, cracks are filled with setting compound, and fiberglass mesh is embedded over cracks and weak spots.
Two or three thin coats of joint compound go on at alternating angles, each dried and lightly sanded before the next pass.
A bright light held flat against the wall exposes remaining dips and ridges, which get a final touch-up pass and fine sanding.
The wall gets a primer matched to what follows, paint or wallpaper, and we clean the room thoroughly so the finish work starts on a clean space.
This typical range covers stabilizing, meshing, two to three skim coats, sanding and priming on plaster or drywall walls in a home. Ceilings, stairwells and badly damaged plaster sit at the higher end. It's a planning figure, and the walk-through sets the real number.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Fine cracks spread across the wall like a map, which is common on old plaster and comes back through paint within a season or two.
Earlier repairs show as raised rectangles or dull halos under raking light, because they were never feathered out across a wide enough area.
Stripping old paper left brown patches, gouges or fuzzy torn drywall face that paint will only highlight, not hide.
Low winter sun across the wall shows rolling hills and dips that look worse with every coat of higher-sheen paint.
Sand-finish, stipple or troweled texture from a past remodel no longer suits the room, and you'd like a smooth wall for paint or paper.
Thin, smooth or natural-fiber wallcoverings show every flaw underneath, so the wall should be flat before the material arrives.
Most of Quincy was built before drywall became standard, so the walls in a Wollaston Hill Victorian, a Montclair two-family or a Merrymount Foursquare are usually three-coat plaster on wood lath. That plaster is hard and durable, but a century of settling, New England freeze-thaw and Red Line and truck vibration leaves it cracked. Many walls also carry layers of paint over old wallpaper over earlier paint, and removing any one layer exposes the damage beneath.
We skim a lot in houses that just changed hands. New owners in Quincy, Dedham and Westwood strip the old wallpaper and find gouged plaster and paper residue they weren't expecting, often with a move-in date already set. Damp coastal summers slow drying between coats, so we run dehumidifiers when needed. Because these houses predate 1978, sanding old painted surfaces gets lead-safe dust control: containment, misting and HEPA vacuums. Fresh compound isn't the concern; the old paint it covers is.
Planning paper for a room? Our wallpaper roll calculator counts double rolls from your room size, pattern repeat and match.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
Usually, yes, for sound plaster. Skim coating keeps the original wall, avoids the dust and demolition of tearing out plaster and lath, and costs less. Plaster also blocks sound between units better than drywall, which matters in a two-family. Replacement makes sense only where plaster is widely crumbling, soaked from long-term leaks, or off the lath across large areas.
A typical bedroom takes two to four days. Each skim coat needs to dry before sanding and the next pass, and drying slows on muggy July and August days near the bay, so we often run a dehumidifier. Rooms with lots of loose plaster or deep cracks add a day for stabilizing. You'll get a realistic schedule at the walk-through.
Skim coating with fiberglass mesh greatly reduces cracks returning, as long as loose plaster is reattached first. If the wall is still moving from a sagging beam or settling foundation, no surface repair holds forever. We check for hollow spots and movement at the walk-through and tell you if a structural issue needs attention first.
We don't recommend it. Joint compound is water-based and can soak the old paper, causing bubbles and lifting that show through the finished wall. Painted-over paper is even less predictable. We remove the paper, clean off the paste residue, seal any torn surface with an oil or shellac primer, and then skim.
Sanding compound does create fine dust, so we seal doorways with plastic, cover floors and HVAC returns, and use pole sanders with vacuum attachments where we can. Careful troweling also means less sanding. In pre-1978 homes, any sanding of old painted surfaces before skimming is done with lead-safe containment and HEPA cleanup.
Not always, but often on old plaster. Thick traditional papers and liner paper can hide minor flaws. Thin papers, grasscloth, metallics and murals show everything, so a skimmed and primed wall gives a much cleaner result. We assess the wall against the specific paper you've chosen and recommend skimming only where it will make a visible difference.
A bulge that moves when you press it, a chunk that fell behind the radiator, or a crack running from the window corner to the ceiling after a.
How we do itYou've chosen a paper you love, but the walls are wavy horsehair plaster, the corners lean, and a mismatched seam at eye level would spoil the whole.
How we do itOld wallpaper is peeling at the seams, painted over, or stuck in three layers to plaster that crumbles when you scrape.
How we do itWalls that crack again a month after painting, flat paint that scuffs when you wipe it, and old oil layers that peel off in sheets: most Quincy.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.