Water soaks in, not beads
Sprinkle water on the boards. If it darkens the wood and disappears instead of beading, the deck has lost its water protection.
A deck that has turned gray, soaks up water and peels in patches where an old film coating failed will keep splintering and checking until the wood is cleaned back and sealed properly.

$1.55 to $3.45Typical per sq ft of deck in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Deck staining and sealing in Quincy means stripping any failing stain, cleaning and brightening the boards, letting the wood dry, sanding rough spots and applying a penetrating oil, semi-transparent or solid deck stain to floors, rails and stairs. Typical ranges run $1.55 to $3.45 per square foot of deck surface, depending on the wood, its condition and the stain type. A walk-through sets the real number.
Decks behind Quincy and Norfolk County houses are mostly pressure-treated pine, with some cedar, mahogany and tropical hardwoods on newer or higher-end builds. Each takes stain differently. Pressure-treated pine needs time to dry after construction, cedar soaks stain in quickly, and dense hardwoods like ipe resist almost everything but a dedicated hardwood oil.
The most common deck problem we see is a film-forming coating that peeled. Thick solid stains and so-called deck paints trap water in horizontal boards, then blister and flake in strips after a winter under snow. We'll explain the trade-offs between penetrating and film-forming products at the walk-through and choose a system that matches how the deck is built, how much sun it gets and how close it sits to salt water.

Sprinkle water on the boards. If it darkens the wood and disappears instead of beading, the deck has lost its water protection.
Boards that have gone silver and feel fuzzy have UV-damaged fibers on top that must be cleaned off before new stain will hold.
Flaking film coatings mean water got under them, and that peeling must be stripped back before a new coat goes on.
Fine cracks along the grain and raised splinters show the wood is drying out and absorbing water unevenly every season.
Dark growth near downspouts, planters or under oaks means moisture lingers, and mildew grows through stain if not cleaned first.
A deck built in the past year or so usually needs its first sealing once the treated wood has dried enough to absorb stain.
New stain won't bond to peeling old coatings or to gray, sun-damaged fibers. We start with a deck stripper where old stain is failing, worked in with stiff brushes and rinsed at low to moderate pressure with a fan tip held well off the wood. On boards that only need cleaning, a percarbonate cleaner removes dirt, mildew, pollen and graying.
An oxalic acid brightener follows. It neutralizes the stripper, lifts tannin and iron stains around nails, and opens the grain so stain absorbs evenly. Then the deck dries, often two or three days in good weather. We check moisture before staining.
Penetrating oils and semi-transparent stains soak into the wood. They wear by fading, so the next recoat is a cleaning and a fresh coat, not a stripping job. They show grain and need recoating more often, roughly every one to three years on horizontal surfaces. Solid deck stains cover more and hide mismatched boards, but on a horizontal floor they can peel, and that makes the next refinish harder.
For most Quincy decks we suggest a semi-transparent oil on the floor and stairs, where foot traffic, snow and standing water are worst, and the same or a solid stain on rails and skirting, which hold coatings longer.
Before staining, we set popped nails or replace them with coated deck screws, flip or replace badly cupped boards, and clear debris from the gaps between boards so water drains. Railing caps and the tops of posts get extra coats, because end grain facing up soaks rain. Stair treads and the boards right outside the slider, where use is heaviest, get a second wet coat.
We note structural concerns, such as a soft ledger board, corroded joist hangers near the water or loose rail posts, and tell you so they can be fixed by a carpenter. We don't stain over a structural problem.
We check the wood species, old coatings, board condition and sun exposure, test how water behaves and recommend a stain type in a written estimate.
Siding, door thresholds, plants and the ground below are covered or wetted, and furniture and grills are moved off the deck.
Failing coatings are stripped and rinsed, or sound boards are cleaned, removing mildew and graying across floors, rails and stairs.
Oxalic brightener neutralizes and evens the wood. The deck then dries for two or more days, and we confirm moisture before staining.
Popped fasteners are reset, bad boards are flagged or replaced and rough, splintered areas are sanded smooth.
Stain goes on by brush, pad or roller and back-brush, rails first and floor last, with extra coats on treads and post tops.
The range covers cleaning, brightening and staining deck floor area, with rails and stairs priced into the square footage. Clean, sound decks getting a penetrating recoat sit at the low end, while decks needing full stripping of failed solid stain sit near the top. A walk-through sets the real number.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Decks around Quincy come in a few common types: small back decks off the kitchens of South and West Quincy capes and ranches, rear decks stacked behind two-families, and larger pressure-treated decks on split-levels and Colonials in Braintree, Milton, Canton and Stoughton. Yards near the Blue Hills Reservation sit under oaks and pines that shade the boards, drop pollen and leaves and keep mildew going, while decks on Squantum, Houghs Neck and near Marina Bay take full sun and salt spray.
Snow sitting on deck boards through a Massachusetts winter, then melting and refreezing, works water into every check and gap. Spring pollen and fall leaves stain unsealed wood. The best windows for deck staining are late May through June and again in September, when days are dry and mild and nights stay above the stain's minimum temperature.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
It varies with how wet the lumber was and the weather. Some treated wood is ready in a few weeks, while very wet lumber may need a couple of months. A simple test is sprinkling water on the boards. If it soaks in within a few minutes, the deck is usually ready for a penetrating stain.
Not always, but on horizontal floors a solid stain behaves like paint and can peel when water gets under it, and snow sitting on the boards for weeks makes that more likely. Semi-transparent or penetrating oils wear more evenly and recoat easily. Solid stain works well on rails, skirting and vertical surfaces.
Penetrating stains on deck floors in full sun and salt air usually need a recoat every one to two years, a bit longer on shaded decks inland. Rails and vertical parts last longer. Recoating while the old stain is just faded, before the wood goes gray, avoids a full stripping job and keeps the cost down.
Composite and PVC decks aren't meant to be stained the way wood is. They benefit from a proper cleaning to remove mildew and dirt. Some composite products can take specialty coatings, but results vary by brand. We'll tell you at the walk-through whether staining makes sense or whether a cleaning is the better choice.
Yes, our deck staining estimates include rails, balusters, stairs and post tops unless you ask otherwise. Those parts take most of the brush time. Stair treads and post caps often get an extra coat because they take the most wear and water. Skirting and lattice can be added.
Deck strippers and brighteners can harm plants, so we wet down beds before and after, cover nearby plantings with breathable drop cloths and rinse the area thoroughly. Potted plants and furniture are moved off the deck. We protect siding and door thresholds with plastic during stripping.
Quincy front porches take sun, snow, rock salt from boots and constant foot traffic, so floorboards wear bare, balusters split and ceilings peel long.
How we do itYour fence has gone gray and fuzzy, the pickets are cupping, and green growth is climbing the shady side.
How we do itGreen streaks on the north wall, black mildew on porch ceilings and a gray salt film off Quincy Bay make a house look neglected, and they keep new.
How we do itCedar shingles on Houghs Neck, Squantum and Adams Shore go gray, grow black mildew on the north walls and curl where old stain has worn off, and once.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.