Rail worn gray at grip points
Bare or dark patches where hands land mean the finish is gone and skin oil is soaking into the wood, which gets harder to clean the longer it goes.
A handrail worn gray where every hand grabs it, balusters chipped by vacuums, risers scuffed by shoes, and a newel post that was handsome once: the staircase gets more daily wear than any other woodwork in the house.

$1,585 to $4,120Typical per flight in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Staircase refinishing in Quincy covers cleaning, lead-safe sanding or stripping of handrails, balusters, newel posts, risers and stringers, repairing loose parts, then either restaining and clear coating the rail or painting the balusters and risers in durable enamel. A typical single flight runs about $1,585 to $4,120, more for long Colonial Revival stairs with landings. The walk-through sets the real number.
In a Wollaston Hill Colonial Revival or a Merrymount Foursquare, the front staircase is often the best woodwork in the house: a square or turned newel post, an oak or birch handrail, and a long run of balusters climbing past a landing window. In Quincy two-families and triple-deckers, the shared front and back stair halls take constant traffic from tenants, deliveries and moving days. Either way, finishes wear out at the rail, the bottom few treads and the baluster bases first.
Our painters refinish staircases in place. That covers painting balusters, risers, skirt boards and stringers, as well as restoring stained and clear-coated handrails and newel posts. We sand, strip where needed, repair loose spindles, and finish each part with a coating made for heavy handling. Treads can be painted too, though full sanding and refinishing of hardwood treads is planned separately.

Handrails collect years of skin oil, which soaks into the finish and darkens the wood. We clean the rail with a solvent cleaner, then decide whether it needs only a scuff and recoat or a full strip. Rails that are still sound get scuff sanded and coated with a clear finish. Rails that are cracked, gummy or worn through get stripped with a chemical stripper, which is gentler on molded profiles than sanding.
After stripping, we sand by hand along the profile, never across it, so the shape stays crisp. A gel or oil-based stain can even out color, and then we apply several coats of a hard-wearing clear finish such as an oil-modified or waterborne polyurethane. Newel posts get the same treatment, with caps, panels and any carved detail cleaned out by brush.
Painted spindles and risers take kicks from shoes, vacuum heads and pet claws. We sand each baluster by hand, fill chips with a sandable filler, and bond prime any glossy old enamel. The finish is a waterborne alkyd or urethane-modified enamel in satin or semi-gloss, brushed carefully around each turning so drips don't form on the lower beads.
Risers get the same enamel, which wipes clean when scuffed. Skirt boards and stringers along the wall are caulked where they meet plaster, then painted. Many Quincy owners like the classic look of white balusters and risers with a stained rail and treads, and that two-tone approach also makes later touch-ups simpler because each part can be refreshed on its own.
A rattling baluster or a rail that wobbles is a safety issue, not just a cosmetic one. Before finishing, we check every spindle and joint. Loose balusters can usually be reset with glue and small finish nails or screws driven at an angle. A wobbly newel post may need a lag bolt or a new block underneath, which we'll point out if it goes beyond simple fixes.
Most single-family homes have only one staircase, and a two-family's back stair is often the second unit's only exit, so we stage the work to keep stairs passable. We finish one side at a time, or alternate treads, and use quick-drying primers so the stair is usable by evening. In pre-1978 homes, old paint on balusters is presumed to contain lead, and we use containment, misting, HEPA sanding and wet cleanup on every step.
We look at every part of the stair, test the existing finishes, check for loose spindles and lead-era paint, and send a written estimate with options.
Floors at top and bottom are covered, walls along the stringer are masked, and containment goes up wherever old layers will be disturbed.
Loose balusters and joints are reset, chipped areas filled, and any trouble with the newel or rail mounting is addressed.
Handrails and newels are stripped or scuffed, balusters and risers sanded, all with HEPA extraction and careful hand work on profiles.
Rails get stain and clear coats, painted parts get bonding primer and two enamel coats, staged so the stair stays passable.
We run a hand along every rail and spindle for rough spots, touch up, remove protection, and clean the stair and landings.
This typical range covers one flight of about twelve to fifteen steps with handrail, balusters, newel post and risers refinished. Curved rails, extra landings, heavy stripping and tread refinishing add to it. The walk-through sets the real number.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Bare or dark patches where hands land mean the finish is gone and skin oil is soaking into the wood, which gets harder to clean the longer it goes.
Vacuum and shoe damage at the base of spindles exposes bare wood and old paint layers that should be filled and recoated.
Riser faces get kicked every day. A fresh enamel makes them wipeable and keeps the whole stair looking cared for.
Loose balusters and a moving rail need tightening before any finish goes on, for both safety and a clean result.
An old finish that feels tacky or lifts in flakes has broken down and needs stripping rather than another layer on top.
Winter boots carry road salt and sand onto the first few treads and the newel base, leaving white rings and worn finish that need cleaning and recoating each spring.
Two-family and triple-decker stair halls show heavy wear and are one of the first things tenants and buyers notice.
Colonial Revival and Shingle Style houses on Wollaston Hill, around Merrymount Park and over the line in Milton often have open stairs with a landing window, a paneled newel and a long oak rail. Many were painted over decades ago, and owners sometimes want the rail returned to stained wood. We strip those carefully by hand and decide with you whether the balusters stay painted or get stripped too, which depends on the wood underneath.
In two-families and triple-deckers across North Quincy, Quincy Point and Montclair, the shared front and back stair halls take the hardest wear: tenants carrying groceries and bikes up from the Red Line, moves every year or two, and wet, salty boots all winter. Landlords usually want a durable, simple finish with enamel on everything except the rail. Humid summers can keep finishes soft longer, so we allow extra drying time before heavy traffic returns.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
Often, yes. We use a chemical stripper and careful hand scraping to take paint off rails and newel posts without rounding the profile. What's underneath decides the result: good hardwood like oak, birch or cherry refinishes nicely, while softwood rails that were always meant to be painted are usually best repainted.
We stage the work so the stairs stay usable, which matters when a back stair is a tenant's second exit. Usually we finish one side or every other tread at a time, with quick-drying primers, so people can still go up and down each evening. A single flight typically takes four to six working days, including stripping, repairs and multiple finish coats.
A hard-wearing clear polyurethane, either oil-modified or waterborne, over stain is most common because it stands up to constant handling and to wet gloves and mittens in winter. Several thin coats with light sanding in between build durability without a thick plastic look. We'll show you samples of satin and semi-gloss on the rail before choosing.
In houses built before 1978, painted balusters, risers and stringers are presumed to contain lead in older layers. Sanding and stripping disturb those layers, so we use containment, misting, HEPA-connected sanders and vacuums, and wet cleanup on every step and landing. Stair halls in multi-family buildings get the same care, and rental owners should check their obligations with the state.
We can paint or finish treads as part of the job, especially on back stairs and common halls. Sanding and refinishing hardwood treads to match the floors is closer to floor refinishing and is planned as its own scope. We'll talk through whether treads should be included at the walk-through.
Baseboards scuffed gray, door edges worn to bare wood, and window casings with drips from five past owners: trim is where an older Quincy house shows.
How we do itWalls that crack again a month after painting, flat paint that scuffs when you wipe it, and old oil layers that peel off in sheets: most Quincy.
How we do itMost Quincy houses were painted long before 1978, so scraping a porch, sanding a window sash or stripping wallpaper can turn old lead paint into dust.
How we do itA Victorian on Wollaston Hill or a Federal-era house near Adams Street carries generations of paint, original wood you can't buy off the shelf, and a.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.