Boards turned silver gray
Sunlight has broken down the surface fibers. Left alone, those fibers wash off with each storm and the board thins, checks and cups over the next few seasons.
Your fence has gone gray and fuzzy, the pickets are cupping, and green growth is climbing the shady side. A fresh coat on dirty, wet wood fails within a season, so the prep decides how long it lasts.

$7.15 to $14.90Typical per linear foot in Quincy. The walk-through sets your number.
Brands we work with: Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, California Paints, Farrow & Ball, PPG, Fine Paints of Europe, Cabot, Zinsser, York Wallcoverings, Thibaut, Schumacher, Phillip Jeffries, Graham & Brown, Roman.
Fence staining in Quincy means washing off mildew, salt film and gray fibers, brightening the wood, letting it dry two or three days, then brushing or back-rolling a penetrating stain or a breathable paint onto every face and edge. Typical ranges run $7.15 to $14.90 per linear foot for a standard six-foot fence. The walk-through sets the real number.
Most fences in Quincy sit in tight side yards between two-families, against a neighbor's garage or along a driveway, often under maples and oaks that shade one face all summer. That shady face stays damp after every rain and foggy morning, so it grays and grows mildew while the sunny face bleaches and checks. A good finish has to handle both conditions on the same board, which is why we look at each run separately before choosing a product.
We stain and paint cedar picket fences, pressure-treated stockade, board-on-board privacy fences, lattice toppers, the split-rail runs common on bigger Norfolk County lots and the old painted pickets that front many Wollaston Hill houses. Some need a semi-transparent stain that lets the grain show. Others carry decades of paint and need scraping, priming and two coats. We'll explain which approach suits your fence and why.

Sunlight has broken down the surface fibers. Left alone, those fibers wash off with each storm and the board thins, checks and cups over the next few seasons.
Splash some water on a sunny board. If it darkens the wood right away instead of beading, the previous stain is gone and the wood is unprotected.
Mildew and algae on the shaded face hold moisture against the wood all season and speed up rot at the rails and the bottom of each picket.
Long curls of paint mean water is getting behind the film, often from bare end grain or open joints, and the loose paint traps more water each week.
Press a screwdriver into the base of each post. If it sinks easily, the post may need replacement before any finish is worth applying.
Bleeding nail heads leave dark stains on cedar, worst near salt air. They respond to brightener, but loose nails should be set or replaced with stainless.
Gray wood is not just discolored. The surface fibers have been broken down by sunlight and are loose, so stain applied over them soaks into a layer that will wash away. We start with an oxygen bleach cleaner (sodium percarbonate) to lift mildew and dirt, rinse at low pressure, then apply an oxalic acid brightener that neutralizes the cleaner and restores the wood's natural tone. Tannin stains on cedar and the black rings around nail heads fade at this step.
We never blast fence boards with a narrow tip. High pressure raises the grain, carves fuzzy grooves into soft cedar and drives water deep into end grain. A wide fan tip held back from the board, plus a soft brush where growth is heavy, does the job without damage. After washing, the fence dries for at least 48 hours, and we check moisture with a meter before any stain goes on.
Penetrating oil or water-based semi-transparent stain soaks into the wood rather than forming a film, so it weathers by fading instead of peeling. It is the right choice for cedar and pressure-treated fences in decent condition, and a refresh coat every three to four years is quick work. Solid stain hides mismatched replacement boards and old color while staying thinner than paint.
Paint suits fences that were painted before, such as white pickets in front of a Colonial Revival or a fence that matches the house trim. Over bare or previously painted wood we spot prime with an oil-based or bonding primer, then apply two coats of exterior acrylic. Paint looks crisp but will peel if water gets behind it, so we caulk nothing that needs to drain and leave the bottom edges open to dry.
Most fence finishes fail from the bottom up and from the top down. End grain at the base of pickets wicks ground moisture, and flat post tops hold water after every storm and hold snow all winter. We brush stain into the cut ends, coat the top edges of rails where water sits, and treat post caps separately. Where boards touch soil or mulch, we pull the mulch back so the finish can reach the wood.
Spraying alone leaves thin spots in gaps and on the back faces of pickets, so we spray to deliver material and then back-brush or back-roll to work it into the grain. Both sides of the fence get coated when you have access to the neighbor's face, which we arrange with you in advance. Plantings, siding, cars and the neighbor's yard get covered with drop cloths and plastic before any spraying starts, and we skip spraying on breezy days near the water.
We measure linear feet, note height, style and condition, test old coatings, check posts for rot and talk about access to the neighbor's side before writing an estimate.
Shrubs, flower beds, siding, cars and patio furniture get covered or moved. Gates are propped open so hinges and latch sides can be reached and coated.
Oxygen cleaner lifts mildew and gray fibers, a low-pressure rinse carries it off, then oxalic brightener restores the wood color and readies the surface for stain.
The fence dries 48 to 72 hours. We reset loose pickets with exterior screws, sand furred cedar and scrape loose paint on previously painted sections.
Stain is sprayed and back-brushed, or paint is primed and applied in two coats, with end grain, rail tops and post caps worked by hand.
We walk the run with you, touch up holidays and drips, uncover plantings and haul away rinse waste, empty cans and plastic sheeting.
The range covers a six-foot fence cleaned, brightened and coated on one or both sides with a semi-transparent or solid stain. Painted picket fences that need scraping and priming land at the upper end, and open split-rail runs fall below it. The walk-through sets the real number for your fence.
Compare every service side by side in our painting and wallpaper cost guide, or call (617) 576-8235 to set a walk-through.
Massachusetts fences take a beating from freeze-thaw cycles. Water that soaks into end grain in November expands when it freezes, opening checks that let in more water by spring. Nor'easters drive rain sideways into one face of the fence for hours. That is why we favor penetrating finishes on cedar here and why we coat the cut ends heavily. On Houghs Neck, Squantum and along Quincy Shore Drive, salt air speeds up graying and corrodes plain steel nails and hinges.
Many Quincy lots are narrow, with fences set right on the property line between two-families in Wollaston and North Quincy. Out in Walpole, Sharon and Medfield the runs are longer and the fences are more often stockade or split rail along wooded lot lines. Older painted picket fences usually predate 1978 and are presumed to carry lead paint, so we scrape them with misting, collect chips on ground sheeting and HEPA vacuum the cleanup.
Quincy neighborhoods and nearby towns we cover most often, with ZIP codes:
New pressure-treated lumber is usually saturated from the treatment plant. Most boards need several weeks to a few months of drying before they accept stain, depending on sun and season. We test moisture with a meter and do a simple water drop test. If water soaks in within a minute or so, the fence is ready. Staining too early traps moisture and the finish peels or stays blotchy.
Not with a penetrating stain, because paint blocks it from reaching the wood. You have two honest choices: strip the fence back to bare wood, which is slow and costly, or stay with a film finish such as solid stain or paint. Most owners choose a solid stain or repaint after we scrape loose areas and spot prime bare wood. We'll show you both options at the walk-through.
We coat both sides when the neighbor gives access, and we recommend it, because an unfinished back face lets moisture into the boards and shortens the life of the front finish. If access isn't possible, we coat your face, all top edges, end grain and post caps from your side, and we note it on the estimate so the price reflects one face only.
Near the water, a semi-transparent stain on a cedar fence typically holds up about three years on the sunny face, a little longer inland, while mildew grows faster on the shaded side. Solid stain often lasts four to six years. A refresh before the wood goes fully gray is far cheaper than a full restoration, because the cleaning and sanding steps shrink a lot.
The cleaners we use, oxygen bleach and oxalic acid brightener, are rinsed with plenty of water, and we wet plants before and after washing. Stain overspray is the bigger risk, so we cover beds and shrubs with breathable drop cloths, shield siding and cars with plastic, and keep the spray low and close. Covers come off at the end of each day so plants don't overheat.
Often it is, because split rail sits close to the ground and rots at the post bases and rail ends first. A penetrating stain with water repellent slows that, and it's quick to apply on open rails. We price split rail by linear foot like other fences, but the rate sits well below a six-foot privacy fence because there is far less surface.
A deck that has turned gray, soaks up water and peels in patches where an old film coating failed will keep splintering and checking until the wood.
How we do itGreen streaks on the north wall, black mildew on porch ceilings and a gray salt film off Quincy Bay make a house look neglected, and they keep new.
How we do itA screwdriver sinks into your window sill, the corner board crumbles at the bottom, or a porch column has gone soft.
How we do itQuincy front porches take sun, snow, rock salt from boots and constant foot traffic, so floorboards wear bare, balusters split and ceilings peel long.
How we do itOur phone is answered around the clock. Tell us about the rooms or the house and we will set a walk-through and a written estimate.